1. First step is to remove the passenger seat at minimum, it’s possible to install the rollbar without taking the driver seat out and it’s not any harder to do, but saves some time.
2. Next, remove rear seat cushions and the door sill cap/trim. Unbolt the upper seat belt mount, then remove the B and C pillar side plastics. The lower panel comes off first, I find it easiest to work my fingers along underneath to pop the clips. The styrofoam bolsters that fit under the front edge of the rear seat cushions will also need to be removed. Be careful to not tear the carpet as you pry it back.
3. Remove the rear cup holder and disconnect the sensor on the back side. Then remove the subwoofer cover. At this point you will be able to remove and trim the fiberboard deck lid. There are 2 phillips clip/fasteners on the top side and about 6 on the front face. Remove these and carefully work the seat belt straps through the openings
With the rear deck lid removed, lay out the center point of the cover and measure for 2 holes to be drilled exactly 34 3/4″ apart, ON CENTER. This means the center of the holes will be drilled on the 34 3/4 mark which will be 17 3/8” from center (see picture above for reference). Then measure in from the front edge of the deck lid 2″. This will perfectly locate your holes to be drilled with a 1 3/4” holesaw. The tube is 1 5/8″ so the 1 3/4″ saw is just barely bigger. There are two different options when modifying the rear deck lid , Option 1 would be to cut a hole and put the down bars through the rear deck lid, IF the street bar was bought. However, this isn’t an option for those who ordered the competition roll bar as there is now an X brace holding the down bars together making option two the only choice.
Option 2 consists of the same lay out as option 1 but with an included slot that’s cut from the inside. This is the preferred method for our cars no matter the roll bar as it makes installation easier and the slot is completely hidden by the back seat cushion. With the holes drilled, use a box knife, hacksaw, air saw, or vertical band saw depending on your arsenal, to cut the slots from the front edge back to the edge of the hole, effectively making a 1 3/4″ wide slot.
4. Now remove the rubber tar/foil sound deadening from the top side of the aluminum bulkhead to expose the 2 bolts on either side that will be used to bolt the bar down, you may need to use a small scraper to clean the top surface.
Re-insert the deck lid carefully with the seat belts re-installed and use a small box or wood shim to prop the deck lid up high enough to insert the cage underneath and the new grade 10 hardware and tighten them using a wrench. Line the edge of the base plates up with the aluminum bulkhead and tighten the bolts down(as seen above). carefully push/wiggle the deck lid down over the back portion of the roll bar until the fiberboard is fully re-installed.
5. At this point, we install the lower main hoop brackets that attach the main hoop to the car.
NOTE: Do not fully tighten these down yet.
6. Now re-install the B and C pillar side plastics, the subwoofer cover, and rear cup holder.
7. With 2 people, carefully get the main hoop into the car and seat the interlocks. If there is misalignment to the bolt holes of the interlocks, use a screwdriver or punch to align one hole while tightening the hardware in the open hole. Tighten the cage interlock hardware first, then move onto tightening the lower base plates. Ratcheting wrenches are helpful for this as it’s tight.
8. Trim the carpet to fit around the main hoop tubing and reinstall the rear seat cushions, the upper seat belt mounts, and the door sill trim. If everything looks good at this point, go ahead and put the passenger seat back in and enjoy!
Let us know if you have any issues or need further clarification!
Thank you, Team Rampage